Chacha Pakistan (Uncle Pakistan) is the name given to the stocky little man adorned in green, who tirelessly waves the Pakistani flag at the Wagah border.  Wagah, a short drive from Lahore, is where political theatricals play out daily at about 5 pm or sundown (whichever comes first).

Foot soldiers from both nations perform a mock-rooster fight, each blowing its trumpets and drums and causing a ruckus as the crowds on respective sides of the border cheer on.  There are parades and an overwhelming display of weaponry as the soldiers brandish their guns proudly.  Goose stepping (as my husband calls it) is a skill these guys excel at.

Central to the activity is a barrier gate that looks pretty flimsy for two countries that are constantly at each other’s throats.  Yeah, you have to go through several layers of security to get to this point, but still...  And eventually they close the gates and all is hunky dory.  Actually, there are several youtube videos about this, but nothing (NOTHING) comes close to witnessing the event for oneself.

The location itself is beautiful.  There are fields on both sides (they try to keep as far from civilization as possible, and yellow wheat plantations provide a soft gold backdrop to the ceremony.  Brick factories are visible in the distant background.  Surreal.

I wandered down a walkway that brings you as close to India as is possible without actually crossing border.  There is a railing and a mesh fence about waist-high to divide the plebes on both sides.  On the other side, several Indian families (mostly from Amritsar and the surrounding areas) were a handshake away.  At one point, I leaned over the fence, and half my body was in India, the other half in Pakistan.  Bizarre.

Living in the US as a naturalized citizen of Pakistani origin, I must say I felt quite a surge of pride as I watched the handsome men go through the motions of a mounting defense.  There was great bon homie on both sides, and Chacha Pakistan was the attraction for all eyes as he sang and danced and swayed with patriotic fervor.  The crowds roared.

I was thoroughly energized and excited by the whole thing. 

I’m told that catcalls, hoots and screaming till hoarseness sets in is a common occurrence.  All I can say is, I was hoarser than a mute horse for days.

Why you should go there: fun, fanfare and more